The door casing is positioned with the back down and the thick side of the trim against the fence. I used some small clamps to hold the casing tight in the miter box. One hand operated the saw, the other held the miter box in place. If you have a work table nearby you can clamp the miter box down. I'm using some of the Irwin Mini and Micro clamps that came in a set (Irwin Quick-Grip Clamp Set) which is an affordable way to get enough clamps for this project.
Get the printable PDF version of this guide — all the formulas, cut diagrams, and assembly steps in one clean document you can print and take to the shop.
Get the PDF GuideWhen I first tried to learn how to build cabinets I had a hard time finding all the information I needed. There was a little bit here, a little bit there, but nowhere did I find it all in one place. This post is my attempt to fix that. It’s a long read but if you’re serious about building your own cabinets it’s well worth the time. To build matching wall cabinets, see my post on How To Build Frameless Wall Cabinets.
Frameless cabinets are easy and affordable to build. They also provide more usable storage space than face frame cabinets. The design I find easiest to build and install is made of 3/4" plywood throughout — including a full back — with two four-inch stretchers at the top. Up to a 30" wide standard base cabinet carcass can be built out of a single sheet of 4’ x 8’ plywood.
The cabinet carcass is the main structural box — sides, bottom, back, stretchers. No doors, drawer fronts, or drawer boxes yet. The carcass can be configured for doors, drawers, open shelving, or any combination. We’re focusing on the standard configuration shown above. One book worth mentioning: Build Your Own Kitchen Cabinets by Danny Proulx. I haven’t read it myself but it comes up often in cabinet-building circles.
Before you start cutting anything, know what size you’re building. These are the standard dimensions for common applications.
| Application | Cabinet Height | Cabinet Depth | Counter Overhang |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kitchen Base | 34-1/2" (for 36" countertop) | 24" | 1" to 1-1/2" |
| Bathroom Vanity | 33" to 36" | 21" | 1" |
| Desk / Office | 28-1/2" (for 30" surface) | 20"–24" | 1"–2" |
| Toe Kick (standard) | 4-1/2" tall | 3" deep | N/A |
Disclosure: I may earn a commission on affiliate links below, at no extra cost to you.
There are four ways to handle the base of a frameless cabinet. Your choice affects how you build the carcass, how you level during installation, and how you apply the finished toe kick.
The sides and back extend to the floor. The front is notched 3" deep and 4-1/2" tall for the toe kick. A sub toe kick runs between the sides inside the notch for support and to give you a nailing surface for the finished kick board. Each cabinet needs to be shimmed individually during installation. This is what most semi-custom cabinets look like.
Same as above but without the notch. Use this for built-in desks, library cabinets, or anywhere a toe kick doesn’t make sense. A decorative board the same thickness as your doors covers the base of all cabinets after installation for a clean continuous look.
Blum leg levelers and Blum kick plate clips make installation easy on uneven floors. Height adjustments are simple during and after installation. The kick board clips onto the legs after everything is leveled. Good for damp environments (basement slab, garage) since the wood stays off the floor. Adds a small per-cabinet cost but the Blum hardware is worth it.
A 2x4 frame with a 3/4" plywood top gives you a 4-1/4" platform (3-1/2" + 3/4"). Level the platform once, then set all your cabinets on it. No individual shimming per cabinet. The carcasses themselves are simpler to build — no toe kick notch to cut. This is my recommendation for most kitchen and bathroom builds.
The strongest option and the one used in this guide. Full 3/4" plywood throughout means one material, consistent joinery, and a cabinet that can handle heavy stone countertops and the appliances that go on top of them. Plan your cut sheet well and the cost difference over a nailer back is minimal.
Two 3/4" nailer strips at the top and bottom of the back instead of a full panel. Saves material, works fine for shop or garage cabinets where you don’t need an enclosed back. You still have something solid to screw into the wall.
Nailer strips plus a 1/4" plywood panel stapled over them. Lighter and cheaper than a full back, gives you the enclosed look. Common in manufactured cabinets. The 1/4" panel can bow over time — not a structural issue but worth knowing.
This is the part most people want to skip. Don’t. Getting the math right before you touch a saw means every cabinet in a run fits together without shimming and gap-filling. The formulas below work for any size cabinet, not just the 30" example we’re using here.
A note on edge banding: most iron-on edge banding is under 1/32" thick. I don’t factor it into my dimensions as long as it’s applied consistently before assembly. Wood moves. No cut is perfect. Consistency matters more than chasing fractions of a millimeter.
Determined by your application. Standard kitchen work surface height is 36". With a 1-1/2" thick countertop, your cabinet needs to be 34-1/2" tall.
Standard kitchen depth is 24" including the door (23-1/4" carcass + 3/4" door). Bathroom vanity standard is 21". Check your appliance specs before committing — slide-in ranges and dishwashers sometimes have depth requirements that affect your design.
This is your call based on your layout. Our example uses 30" — the widest you can get from a single 4’ x 8’ sheet.
Our example: 30" W × 34-1/2" H × 24" D, 3/4" plywood throughout, standard base, full back. Grain direction follows the height on all pieces.
This cut list is for the 30" W × 34-1/2" H × 24" D example. All pieces are 3/4" plywood. Use the formulas above to adjust for your dimensions.
| Part | Qty | Height | Width | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Side | 2 | 34-1/2" | 23-1/4" | Edge band front edge before assembly |
| Bottom | 1 | 28-1/2" | 22-1/2" | Edge band front edge before assembly |
| Back | 1 | 28-1/2" | 33-3/4" | No edge banding needed |
| Shelf | 1 | 28-1/2" | 22" | Edge band front edge; pins installed after assembly |
| Stretcher | 3 | 4" | 28-1/2" | Edge band front edge on the 2 front stretchers |
| Sub Toe Kick | 1 | 4-1/2" | 28-1/2" | No edge banding needed |
| Total Parts | 9 | All from one 4’ × 8’ sheet of 3/4" plywood | ||
Apply edge banding to the front edge of both cabinet sides. Then drill pocket holes around the top and sides of the Cabinet Back and attach it to one side as shown. The bottom of the Back is flush with the bottom of the Side. Leave a 3/4" gap at the top — that’s where the rear stretcher will sit.
Apply edge banding to the front edge of the Bottom, then drill pocket screw holes and attach it to the Side and Back assembly. The bottom of the Bottom piece sits flush with the toe kick notch. Use your square at every corner — a box that’s out of square at this stage stays out of square.
Attach the second Side using the pocket holes already drilled in the Back and Bottom. No new drilling needed — that’s the beauty of drilling the pocket holes in the Back and Bottom pieces rather than the Sides.
Apply edge banding to the front edge of the two front stretchers. Drill pocket holes and attach all three stretchers with the pocket holes facing up to minimize their visibility. The rear stretcher sits flush at the back, the two front stretchers go at the top front of the cabinet.
In this example the cabinet will have one full-width drawer across the top and two doors below. Spacing the second front stretcher depends on your desired drawer height. Standard top drawer height is 6". With overlay hardware, leave a 1/4" gap at the top to clear the countertop — so the second stretcher sits 6-1/4" down from the top of the cabinet.
The Sub Toe Kick supports the cabinet bottom, stiffens the whole carcass, and gives you a nailing surface for the finished kick board after installation. Drill pocket holes and attach it between the Sides at the front of the toe kick notch.
Use the Kreg Shelf Pin Jig to drill holes in the front and back of each Side. Position them 37mm from the front edge — use the short side of the jig without the fence. For the rear holes, flip the jig around. Leave at least 3"–4" clearance at top and bottom for door hinge hardware.
Edge band the front of the Shelf, insert shelf pins at the height you want, and drop the shelf in. The cabinet is done.
3/4" hardwood veneered plywood throughout. Some manufacturers build with 5/8" to cut costs, but if you’re building your own cabinets you might as well do it right. You’re already saving a lot over semi-custom, so the 3/4" is worth it. It also makes pocket hole joinery stronger and more predictable.
34-1/2" for the carcass if you’re targeting a standard 36" kitchen work surface height with a 1-1/2" thick countertop. Bathroom vanities run 33" to 36" depending on preference — I’ve built them at 35" for taller people and it makes a noticeable difference in daily comfort.
24" for kitchen base cabinets (23-1/4" carcass + 3/4" door), 21" for bathroom vanities. Check your appliance specs before you commit — slide-in ranges and dishwashers sometimes have specific depth requirements.
Frameless for most DIY builds. More usable interior space, simpler construction (no face frame to build and attach), and a cleaner contemporary look. Face frame cabinets have a more traditional appearance if that’s what you’re going for, but frameless is faster and easier to build in my experience.
For most builds, the separate base platform. You level one simple 2x4 frame with a plywood top, then all your cabinets sit on it square and level without individual shimming. The platform costs a few 2x4s and a piece of plywood. On a large kitchen build the time savings over shimming six or eight individual cabinets is significant. It also simplifies the carcass — no toe kick notch to cut into the sides.
If the floor is concrete or damp, adjustable Blum leg levelers are worth the per-cabinet cost. The hardware is solid and keeps the wood off the floor.
For kitchen and bathroom cabinets I always use a full 3/4" back. The strength is worth it, especially under heavy stone countertops. For garage or shop cabinets that will be screwed to the wall anyway, nailer strips are fine. The 1/4" back with nailers is a reasonable middle ground when you want the enclosed look without the material cost.
Clamp before you drive any screws. Use bar clamps or pipe clamps to hold pieces together, and corner clamps if you’re working alone. Once clamped, check each corner with a combination square, then measure diagonally corner to corner in both directions. Equal diagonals = square box. If they’re off, rack the assembly gently before the glue sets. Check at each step as you go rather than waiting until the end.
Yes. A circular saw with a straight-edge guide gives you accurate rip cuts in plywood. It takes a bit more setup time per cut than a table saw, but the results are just as good if you’re careful with your layout.
A 30" wide cabinet fits from a single 4’ x 8’ sheet — that’s what the cut plan diagram above shows. Narrower cabinets give you more flexibility. Always lay out your cut plan on paper before you touch the saw. Saving one sheet on a kitchen build is typically $60–$80, so the 20 minutes of planning pays off.
Get the printable PDF version of this guide — all the formulas and dimensions in one clean document you can print and take to the shop.
Get the PDF GuideEuropean frameless wall cabinets have a very clean, contemporary look — but frameless cabinets are versatile. By using nicer doors and adding crown molding and light rail trim you can achieve a more traditional look. You can save a lot of money building your own. While it isn’t very difficult, accurate cuts and square assembly are critical. Before committing to a full kitchen, build one small cabinet first to make sure you’re happy with your results.
Every component dimension follows a simple formula. This table gives you the full picture before you start cutting. All examples assume 3/4" plywood and a 12-1/2" deep × 18" wide × 30" tall cabinet.
| Component | Subtract this | Why | Example (3/4" ply) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Side width | 3/4" (door thickness) | Overlay door sits in front | 12-1/2" − 3/4" = 11-3/4" |
| Top/bottom length | 1-1/2" (both sides) | Fits between side panels | 18" − 1-1/2" = 16-1/2" |
| Top/bottom width | 3/4" (door thickness) | Same depth as sides | 12-1/2" − 3/4" = 11-3/4" |
| Back height | 1-1/2" (top + bottom) | Fits between top and bottom | 30" − 1-1/2" = 28-1/2" |
| Back width | 1-1/2" (both sides) | Fits between side panels | 18" − 1-1/2" = 16-1/2" |
| Shelf width | 1-3/4" (door + back + 1/4" gap) | Clears door and back, allows expansion | 12-1/2" − 1-3/4" = 10-3/4" |
| Single door height | 1/8" total | 1/16" clearance per side | 30" − 1/8" = 29-7/8" |
| Single door width | 1/8" total | 1/16" clearance per side | 18" − 1/8" = 17-7/8" |
| Each double door width | 1/4" total, divide by 2 | 1/8" between doors, 1/16" per side | (36" − 1/4") / 2 = 17-7/8" |
| Spec | Standard | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Depth (over counter) | 12" | 11" interior, fits most dinner plates |
| Height | 30" or 42" | 30" standard, 42" goes to ceiling |
| Max Width | 42" | Narrower is more stable and rigid |
| Door gap | 1/16" min per side | 1/8" per side recommended |
| Hinge bore center | 3-3/16" from door edge | Top and bottom hinges |
Disclosure: I may earn a commission on affiliate links below, at no extra cost to you.
Unlike my other posts there is no single cut list here, because these are general instructions and your cabinet dimensions will vary. Instead I’ll give you the formulas to calculate every component to your own specifications.
For the carcass, 3/4" plywood throughout is the recommendation. It’s the simplest approach and produces the strongest result. Some builders use 1/4" backs with nailer strips, or 1/2" sides, mainly to save material cost. If you’re building just a few cabinets the simplification of using one thickness throughout is worth more than the material savings.
Plywood is better than MDF, which is better than particle board. For kitchen or bathroom cabinets use A1 or A2 grade hardwood veneered plywood for exposed ends and doors. Lower appearance grades work fine for the interior carcass if you’re painting. For shop or garage cabinets, shop-grade or even CDX plywood will do.
For doors, the simplest option is slab doors cut from the same plywood as the carcass. That’s what this guide covers. If you want raised panel or shaker doors, a number of companies make custom doors to size at reasonable cost — worth considering if the style matters more than the budget.
In our tutorial we’ll build a cabinet that is 18" W × 30" H × 12-1/2" D, made from 3/4" plywood throughout. This gives us an 11" interior depth — enough for most dinner plates. Standard upper cabinet depth is 12" including the door. If you have larger plates or want extra room, build deeper. For consistency, “height” always refers to the direction of the grain.
You need 2 side pieces. The height of each side equals the cabinet height. Because we’re using overlay doors the width of the side is the cabinet depth minus the thickness of the door.
The top and bottom pieces are identical in size. The length fits between the two sides; the width matches the depth of the sides.
The back fits inside both side panels and between the top and bottom. Subtract both side thicknesses from the width and both the top and bottom thicknesses from the height.
Shelves rest on 5mm shelf pins inserted into holes drilled inside the cabinet sides. The shelf spans the interior width and stops short of the door and back to allow for clearance and wood movement.
Our cabinet uses a single full-overlay door — it sits in front of the cabinet and covers almost all of it. It needs a small gap around the perimeter so it doesn’t bind against adjacent doors or walls. The minimum clearance with most hinges is 1/16" per side, so we subtract 1/8" from each dimension.
Apply edge banding to the front edge of each of the four perimeter pieces before assembly — it’s much easier to do before the box is together. Then drill pocket holes in the top and bottom pieces as shown.
Start by attaching the top to one side. Pocket holes face the outside of the cabinet.
Attach the bottom to the same side, again with pocket holes facing outward.
Close the box by screwing the second side into place. Check all four corners for square before the glue sets.
Before attaching the back, dry-fit it to confirm it’s square and fits inside the opening. If it’s off, trim it now — the back will lock whatever shape the box is in when it goes on. Once confirmed, disassemble, apply glue to all joints, reassemble, then drill pocket holes around the perimeter of the back and attach it.
One of the real advantages of pocket hole joinery is that the screws act like clamps — they hold everything tight while the glue dries without needing a wall of bar clamps.
Remove the fences from your Kreg Shelf Pin Jig and place it at the bottom of the cabinet with the short side flush with the front face. This positions holes 37mm from the front edge. Use the 2nd and 3rd holes from the bottom to drill pilot holes for the lower hinge mounting plate.
Slide the jig to the top of the cabinet, keeping it flush with the front. Use positions 2 and 3 from the top for the upper hinge plate pilot holes.
Now insert the indexing pin in the bottom hole of the jig, drop it into the first shelf pin hole drilled previously, and continue up the cabinet drilling the remaining front shelf pin holes. Stop before you reach the top hinge pilot holes.
Flip the jig so the short end faces the back of the cabinet. Start from the bottom corner and use the indexing pin to drill the back row of shelf pin holes up the side. No hinge pilot holes needed in the back row. Repeat the entire process on the other side panel.
On the back (hinge) face of the door, mark two lines 3-3/16" in from the top and bottom edges. This is the centerline for the 35mm hinge bore cup.
Use a concealed hinge jig to drill the 35mm bores at each centerline. Attach the hinges, hang the door, and adjust the three-way adjustment screws until the reveal is even all the way around the cabinet.
Insert shelf pins, drop in the shelf, and the cabinet is complete. Paint and prime, or stain and finish.
12" is the standard depth for upper cabinets over a counter — that gives you about 10-1/2" to 11" of interior space which fits most dinner plates. If you have larger plates or want extra room, build a bit deeper. Over a refrigerator or tall appliance you can go deeper since you have more support. I built mine at 12-1/2" for a full 11" interior and it’s been the right call.
The standard is 18" above the countertop. That gives enough clearance to work comfortably and enough room for small appliances to tuck underneath. If you’re going with 42" cabinets to reach the ceiling, work out your ceiling height and countertop height first so you know exactly where the cabinet tops need to land.
With 3/4" plywood, keep it to 42" maximum. The wider you go the more a shelf will sag under load over time. For cabinets over 36" wide, add a center support or use thicker shelf material. Narrower is more rigid — two 21" cabinets will outperform one 42" cabinet if the space allows it.
Overlay, full stop. With inset doors the opening has to be dead square and the door has to fit precisely or you’ll have visible gaps. With overlay the door covers the front of the cabinet so small imperfections in the carcass don’t show. For a first build, always go overlay.
One of the real advantages of pocket hole joinery is that the screws hold everything tight while the glue dries — you don’t need a wall of bar clamps. A couple of corner clamps are useful when attaching the top or bottom to a side while working alone, but they’re not strictly required.
Any standard 35mm cup hinge for a 1/2" overlay application will work with this design. Blum makes excellent hinges with three-way adjustment that makes dialing in the door alignment straightforward. Cheap hinges work initially but the adjustment screws tend to strip over time. Spend a few extra dollars on quality hardware — you’ll be opening these hundreds of times a year.
Yes. A 1/4" plywood back with 1/2" nailer strips top and bottom is a common way to save material and weight, especially on taller cabinets. It gives the enclosed look without using a full piece of 3/4". The trade-off is slightly less rigidity. For kitchen cabinets I use 3/4" throughout. For workshop or garage builds the thinner back is fine.
You don’t have to, but a coat or two of water-based polycrylic on the interior makes the cabinet easier to wipe down and keeps the plywood from absorbing moisture and cooking odors over time. It’s worth the hour of work, especially for kitchen cabinets where steam and grease are in the air.
