Lil Bit of Everything Garden Shed Plans

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Free woodworking plans to build the Lil Bit of Everything Shed. A shed that packs a lot of storage and usefulness into a small 6' 6" x 4' space. Ideal for small backyards. Lawn mower, snow blower and other tool storage, fertilizer and soil storage, a work/potting bench and even a little bit of a greenhouse all in one.

I want to find a better way to store my lawnmower, snow blower and other yard tools and supplies but I don't have a very large backyard. I've been looking over various shed kits you can buy but none really fit exactly what I need. I've been working on different plans and this one so far has been my favorite.

My main requirements are to have a space where I can have one of either my walk-behind lawnmower or snow blower easily accessible depending on the season while the other one is tucked away. Other landscaping power tools such as edger, trimmer and leaf blower should have a home in the shed as well as hand tools that I use in the landscape or garden. Bags of soils, fertilizers and other amendments need a spot too. My lawn spreader is always getting in the way in the garage, let's try to get that in the shed. Maybe even a spot to park a bike. A space I could use as a workbench and potting bench would be so great!  Add that to the plan. If there's a workbench I better be able to stand up straight in it. While we're at it, let's have a clear roof so we can use the shed to harden off transplants or protect potted plants from frost too! Oh and let's not forget that I need it to be designed like those Yardsaver sheds that go up against the house.

Sounds like a lot to ask from a simple shed doesn't it? I was able to meet all of my requirements by making some modifications to these Outdoor Storage Locker plans from The Family Handyman.

The space is tight. The lawnmower (or snow blower) will need to have the handle folded before the door will close but that's manageable. If I want to use the bench top I'll need to pull the lawnmower out of the shed, also not a big deal since I went with a fancy mower model that has wheels! You should really try one of them. :)  If I have the bike in the shed some of the items on the left shelves will be hard to get but again, with careful organizing and moving the bike out of the way it's something I think I can work with.

Here's a more detailed look at the LBoE Shed.

Before You Get Started

Check with your local building department to see if you need any permits or other special considerations. 

The interior depth of the LBoE Shed is 3' 5" which works well with my equipment but make sure the size will work with yours.

Step 1: Shed Base

There are a number of different ways you can make a suitable base for your LBoE Shed. Depending on your climate and local ordinances, some choices may be better than others. How to make a shed base can fill up an entire article so for simplicity I'm going to just pick a 3.5" deep concrete slab base for the shed and assume you can manage to make or get someone to pour the concrete slab for you.

The overall size for the base should be 6'6" wide by 4' deep with a small ramp in the front. If the shed is going up against the house leave a couple of inches at the back of the shed to allow for the roof's overhang and so that the shed is not touching the other structure. 

Dig an area where the shed will go about 2" deep and tamp and level the ground. Erect your forms out of 2x4 lumber (or larger if you need a thicker slab).

Make sure everything is square and level. Place 6 mil poly moisture barrier on the bottom, add some mesh for reinforcement then pour your sehd's foundation. Use some wooden stakes to keep everything in place.

Before the concrete has hardened add the J-Bolts that will anchor the shed to the base according to the diagram below.

Depending on climate, the concrete should set for a day before removing the forms and you should wait at least 5 days before building your shed.

Step 2: Build The Back Wall

Start by building the back wall frame using pressure treated 2x4's nailed and galvanized (or other coatings suitable for pressure treated wood) framing nails as laid out below. Build the wall on flat surface with the outside of the wall up. Build the wall with the 2x4's first and leave the top 2x6 header for last. The studs are 16" on center from the left with a couple of extra studs to support shelves and workbench.

Have all your studs as well as top and bottom plates cut before you begin. Mark the stud locations on the top and bottom plate at the same time so they match. Then start nailing the studs to the top and bottom plates using 16d galvanized nails with at least 2 nails at the top and 2 nails at the bottom. Make sure everything stays square as you go.

The horizontal blocking  adds some strength but is mainly used to support the shelves. Make any adjustments to accommodate different bench and shelf heights or add additional shelves if you like. Keep in mind that the snow blower and lawn mower will need to fit in the space under the bench top with handles folded.

Add Header

The back wall header installs flush to the back (outside) side of the back wall. With the wall still on the floor that means it will be on the edge away from the floor. Attach the 2x6 pressure treated header to the top plate by nailing directly into the top plate as well as through the L-brackets for additional strength. 

The L-brackets should be at least 2 inches in from each edge and then spaced evenly throughout the rest of the board.

Attach Siding

Cut, glue and nail the siding to the back wall so that it's flush with all the edges. The first piece of siding goes on the right with the wall on the floor outside facing up. This is a full sheet that is trimmed at the top so it's flush with the top of the header.

Run a bead of construction adhesive along all the studs, top and bottom plates as well as all framing the panel will come in contact with. Place the panel and nail it into place along the studs and top and bottom. The grooves in the panel should line up with the studs.

Place the second panel on the back wall. There is a slight overlap between the two panels. Mark the panel at the end of the wall and top of the top plate. Cut and attach it using construction adhesive and nails as you did the first panel.

At this point you'll probably also want to take the time to paint the back wall siding. This is especially important if you plan to install the shed in a spot where the back will be hard to access. The composite siding is already primed so all you need to do is apply 2 coats of a good exterior paint.

Step 3: Build the Front Wall

Build the front wall on the floor as you did for the back wall. Make sure the blocking heights are the same as for the back wall and keep everything square as you build the wall.

The bottom plate will be cut at the door opening after the walls are constructed but make the wall with a full bottom plate so it's easier to keep everything square. Make a couple of undercuts at the door opening to make sawing the plate without cutting the floor easier. See the dark marks in the bottom plate in diagram above.

Make the header that goes over the door opening out of 1/2" plywood sandwiched between two 2x4's with a 3rd 2x4 on the bottom as shown in the diagram below. Use construction adhesive and screws to hold everything together.

Step 4: Install Front and Back Walls

With the front and back walls now constructed it's time to attach them to the shed's concrete base. Double check the location of the anchor bolts and drill appropriate holes on the wall's bottom plates.

Lift the back wall into place, make sure it's aligned properly, plumb and level then fasten it to the slab using the washers and nuts on the anchor bolts. Repeat for the front wall. The walls will be heavy so have a couple of people to help while someone else fastens the nuts.

If you're working alone, it's going to take some time before you build the sides or if it's going to be very windy add some temporary bracing to sturdy the walls.

Step 5: Attach Side And Shelf Members

There are 16 side framing members that add stability to the frame as well as provide supports for the plywood shelving. A couple extra help protect the siding and provide additional nailing surfaces. They are installed using 2x4 fence brackets on each end. The width is 41" but cut each 2x4 to 40-15/16" to allow room for the brackets.

Attach each with a 2x4 Fench Bracket on each end to the front and back walls as shown. Make sure they're all level and line up with the other shelf supports on the back and front walls. The outside edges of the brackets should be flush with the side 2x4's on the front and back walls so the siding can be installed flat.

Here's a closeup showing how the 2x4's are attached using the fence brackets.

Step 6: Finish Off Shelves

Cut 2 41" long pieces from a 2x3 board. Use one as a support for the top most right shelf. Because it's close to the shelf below it we didn't install a 2x4 there to allow extra room.

Cut out the plywood for the shelves including the notches to fit around the studs. Screw them in place. For the workbench top add an additional layer of 1/8" hardboard to provide a smoother and more durable surface.

Take the remaining 41" length of 2x3 and attach it between the front and backwalls over the workbench to give you more nailing area to install a pegboard. Cut the pegboard to size, leaving about 1/4" on the top and side so it's easier to install.

You should have about a 42" piece of 2x6 left over after cutting the header for the back wall. Attach it to the inside of the back wall so the top is about 69" above the floor. You'll use this to attach hooks and supports to hang items off the wall.

Step 7: Roof Framing

There are 2 2x4 roof rafters, one on each side of the shed. They are 43-5/16" long and cut with a 7.4 degree angle on each side. An easy way to get the angle is to start with a 43-3/4" long 2x4 and trim off the corners 7/16" in as shown below.

Attach the rafters on each side of the shed using a 2x4 Fence Bracket on each end. Line up the rafter using a straight edge so the roof line flows to the front of the front wall as shown.

After you've attached both roof rafters, attach the 2 horizontal roof members using 2x4 joist hangers on each end.

Step 8: Front and Side Siding

Before we complete the siding, there's one last framing task. Remember we left the bottom plate on the front wall run the whole length of the wall, even where the door opening was? Now it's time to cut it. Use a flush cut saw to trim it flush with the jack studs. We undercut the area when building the wall so that we wouldn't ruin the saw blade sawing up against concrete or scratch the floor if it was wood.

Then complete installation of the composite siding on the sides and front. Cut the siding to size, run a bead of construction adhesive along all parts of the framing the panel will touch and nail into place.

Now's a good time to paint the siding before you put the trim on. The siding is primed so all you need is 2 coats of a good quality exterior paint.

Step 9: Apply Trim

It's a good idea to have your trim painted before you install it. You can later go back to fill nail holes and prime and paint any cut areas.

Apply the 1x3 trim around the top, corners and door as shown. Use construction adhesive and finish nails.

Step 10: Install SunTuff Roof

Palram has pretty good instructions and videos on how to install their roof so I won't go into too much details but it's basically....

Install the closure strips on the roof framing. The wavy ones go horizontally and the straight ones go up the sides.

Then cut the SunTuf clear panels to length so that there's a little overhang on the front, and install them on the closure strips. Overlap the 4 panels to avoid having to make any vertical cuts.

Step 11: Build Shed Door

Construct two identical door frames using 1x4 boards to the dimensions shown in the diagram. To cut out the diagonal board, make the rectangular frame first, make sure it's square then use that to trace the angles for the diagonal.

Sandwich a layer of composite siding between the 2 door frames. Remember that the diagonal bottom is on the hinge side.

Attach the door hardware and mount the door to the shed, leaving about a 1/8" gap around the door.

After installing the door, attach door stop molding around the door jamb on the inside of the shed so the swing of the door stops at the right spot and doesn't try to swing into the shed. This provides extra stability and security to the door. With someone holding the door closed and flush with the trim, install the door stop from the inside, nailing it to the door jambs with finish nails.


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